Soběslav – Historic Centre

Nestled modestly among fields and meadows, Soběslav might go unnoticed – if not for its tall church tower, visible from afar. The town is closely tied to the Rosenberg family, especially the last of them, Peter Vok, who founded a university here meant to rival Prague’s Charles University (though unsuccessfully) and gifted a house to Zuzana Vojířová, the favorite lady-in-waiting of his wife. The town dates back to the 12th century.

Legend has it that a hermit once lived here. When a Czech prince asked him why he rang his bell so loudly, he replied: “I celebrate myself” (in Czech: “Sobě slavím”) – hence the town’s name. More likely, it was founded by the Vítkovci clan, who ruled the region. In the Middle Ages, the town had a triple fortification, remnants of which can still be seen. In the northwest stood a castle, now reduced to the Hláska tower, which houses a modern library.

You won’t find a maze of narrow alleys like in Tábor, but there’s a lovely spacious square where an annual brass music festival is held. The Blata Museum is housed both in the Renaissance Smrček House and in the house of Zuzana Vojířová – now the Rožmberk House. Soběslav also boasts three beautiful churches.

The largest, the Church of Saints Peter and Paul, features the tallest tower in the Toulava region – and, like Pisa’s, it leans slightly. The view stretches far, even to the Šumava mountains on clear days. The smaller Gothic Church of St. Vitus next to the 15th-century town hall with red gables also charms visitors. The Church of St. Mark, with a shingled roof, now serves as an art gallery. And those who remember Lada sewing machines – they were made right here in Soběslav.