Švejk’s South Bohemian Odyssey from Písek to Putim
The Good Soldier Švejk, a character created by Jaroslav Hašek, marched through South Bohemia with his characteristic calmness and keen observation. He visited Putim twice in the novel. You can easily follow in Švejk’s footsteps from Písek, ideally on foot or by bicycle. It’s a pleasant half-day trip, and once a year, organized „Švejkovky“ events také place in Písek.
Total length
12 km
Duration
3 to 5 hours
Terrain
Combination of paved and unpaved paths
Difficulty level
Easy; not suitable for strollers or wheelchairs
Marking
Yes
Route description
The trail starts at the site of the former Putim Gate in Písek. Although the gate no longer stands, a bronze plaque marks its location and mentions Švejk. Proceed towards the Otava River, which will accompany you on your right. Follow the red trail markers past the Jitex textile factory and above the ski slope to the Hotel U Smetáka, which offers a rest area and a children’s playground.
Continue along the path known as the „Devil’s Trail“ (Čertova stezka), with the Otava River by your side, until you reach the Zátavský Bridge. Briefly leave the river, walking a short distance to the left along the road, then turn right past a cottage settlement.
Follow the cycle path to the confluence of the Otava and Blanice rivers, where you’ll find a campsite offering refreshments. From the campsite, it’s a short walk through the woods to Putim. To return to Písek, you can také a train from the Putim railway station near the Podkostelní Pond. Alternatively, continue to Ražice, awarded South Bohemian Village of the Year in 2007 and a key railway junction on the České Budějovice – Plzeň line, from where you can catch a train back to Písek.
Interesting places on the route
Písek: A royal town founded by Přemysl Otakar II, renowned for the oldest stone bridge in the Czech Republic, dating back to the 13th century. The bridge withstood the millennium flood in 2002 and remains in use. Nearby is the Sladovna (Malt House), a cultural center with interactive exhibits for families, including a unique play gallery and a malting museum. Adjacent is the Prácheň Museum, which explores regional history and features aquariums with South Bohemian fish species. Along the route to the former Putim Gate, you’ll pass the historic town power plant, launched in 1888 by František Křižík, marking a revolution in public lighting and home electrification.
Jitex: A prominent textile factory by the Otava River, reminiscent of Písek’s textile heritage. Despite its weathered appearance, it continues to produce knitted and sewn garments. Products made from merino wool and „smart“ clothing are available at a shop in Písek’s center or online at jitex-comfort.cz.
Ski Slope: Located a few meters uphill from the Jitex factory, this ski slope dates back to the 1970s and underwent complete renovation in 2019. It features a ski lift and operates in winter for the public. In summer, experienced skiers can use special brushes for skiing. More information at skiarenapisek.cz.
„Písek’s Barrandov“: A riverside swimming area evoking the atmosphere of a „whimsical summer.“ It serves as a popular spot during hot summers, offering swimming in both the river and a pool. Though located across the river, it’s a refreshing destination after your hike.
Devil’s Trail (Čertova stezka): The numerous rocks in the Otava Valley provide opportunities for climbing groups. In areas where the rocks come closest together and the valley narrows, try shouting and you’ll hear peculiar echoes… perhaps something devilish?
Confluence of the Blanice and Otava Rivers – Here you’ll find the “Soutok” campsite, where you can grab refreshments or go for a swim. From here, it’s just a short walk through the woods to Putim.
Putim – The village of Putim is forever linked with Švejk. In the novel, the good soldier was interrogated here, and you can still find the sign marking the old gendarmerie station. A bronze statue of Švejk stands by a charming café — a must-see stop. Tradition says you should polish the statue’s boot; otherwise, your joints will ache! In Putim, you’ll also find the so-called “Zvířátkov,” a spacious private zoo and relaxation park. You should also visit the beautiful cemetery with its ossuary. From here, you get a great view of the famous Podkostelní Pond, whose autumn fish harvests are always a festive event with entertainment and attractions right on the dam.
