In the Footsteps of the Last Bohemian Forest Bear

Total length

15,3 km

Duration

4 hours

Terrain

Paved road, unpaved forest paths

Difficulty level

Moderately challenging; the route is not suitable for strollers or wheelchairs

Marking

Yes

Route description

From Nová Pec, follow the cycling path toward Ovesná (approx. 3 km). If you want to shorten the route, you can use the train between Nová Pec and Ovesná. In Ovesná, the yellow-marked tourist trail—called the Bear Trail (Medvědí stezka)—begins. This is the oldest educational trail in the Czech Republic (established in 1967). Some of the rock formations are now hidden among tall trees, and the views from them have disappeared, but others offer occasional views thanks to windbreaks, overlooking the Boletice military area with the dominant Knížecí Stolec peak.

Once in Ovesná, whether by train or on foot, continue along the asphalt road, turning left uphill after about half a kilometer. After a steeper climb, you’ll reach the first rock formation. You’re now entering a granite rock “city” unique in the Czech Republic. The trail continues to “Perníková skála” (Gingerbread Rock), where you can see granite slabs shaped by geological processes. Moving on through the Robbers’ Gorge, you’ll reach a rock formation called the Gothic Portal. Along the way, you’ll pass many other rock formations that are no longer marked but are worth noticing (Pokličky, Rock Tent, Moss Pyramid). Continue with a gentle climb to the Rock Lookout, which is now overgrown.

On the way, you’ll encounter more rock formations and can spot so-called “stilt roots” of spruces—typical in old-growth forests. This happens when a young sapling takes root on decaying wood; its roots gradually surround the dead log and eventually reach the ground. As the tree grows and the old log decays, a hollow space forms beneath the branching roots. You’ll reach the most famous formation of the Bear Trail—the Balancing Rock (Viklan)—passing by the Rock Chapel and Mushroom Rock (Hřib). The Balancing Rock is now hidden among young spruces.

The undulating landscape continues to a plateau with the Stone Beauty (Kamenná kráska), whose right side resembles the head of an ancient Inca statue. The only viewpoint on the trail, due to fallen trees, is the plateau between Stone Beauty and another formation—the Giant Puffball (Pýchavka obrovská). From this lookout, you can see Knížecí Stolec and Lysá, peaks of the Želnavská Upland. Unmarked formations like Calf’s Head (Hlava telete) and Giant Cubes (Obří kostky) can be easily missed due to dense vegetation, as can the cluster of rocks between them.

You’ll now approach Perník peak (1049 m), filled with diverse rock formations. Among them, you’ll find countless romantic nooks and paths. This spot is called Bear Lookout, though it is now also overgrown with newly regenerating forest.

From here, the trail descends to Jelení Lake (Jelení jezírko)—an artificial retention pond once used for floating timber along the Schwarzenberg Canal. From the lake, continue on the yellow trail to the Jelení Vrchy settlement.

If you’re interested in the history of timber floating in Šumava, you can visit the Schwarzenberg Canal Museum at Jelení Vrchy. From Jelení Vrchy, you can continue on the yellow trail past Bear Rock (Medvědí kámen), a memorial marking the spot where the last bear in Šumava was shot, and head to the train at Černý Kříž—or také cycling route no. 1027 back to Nová Pec.

In winter, part of the Bear Trail (from Černý Kříž to Jelení Vrchy, approx. 7 km) is open to cross-country skiers.

Interesting places on the route

Nová Pec – The village was founded in the mid-17th century. Permission to establish it was granted by Johann Christian, Duke of Krumlov and Prince of Eggenberg. At the start of the 20th century, Nová Pec had nearly 500 inhabitants (476) and 66 houses. The village flourished after World War I, with many new buildings thanks to its advantageous location: in winter, it was a popular ski destination with plenty of snow; in summer, it attracted visitors seeking peaceful relaxation. This character remains today, making it a popular destination for summer and winter vacations.

Schwarzenberg Navigational Canal – A unique technical monument built in two phases between 1789 and 1822, designed by engineer Josef Rosenauer. The canal linked a tributary of the Cold Vltava with the Austrian Große Mühl River (a Danube tributary), thus connecting the North Sea and Black Sea watersheds. It was constructed at the request of Prince Johann Nepomuk I of Schwarzenberg to transport one-meter-long firewood logs from the inaccessible northern slopes of Šumava (in the Vltava watershed) across the European watershed near the former village of Růžový Vrch to the Große Mühl and then to the Danube, supplying firewood to imperial Vienna. The canal’s total length is 44 km, including a 400 m tunnel near Jelení Vrchy. It was used for timber floating from 1793 to 1962—almost 170 years.

Schwarzenberg Canal Exhibition – Jelení Vrchy Forester’s House No. 13 – Here you’ll find information about the canal’s history, Šumava’s forests, the region’s settlement history, and timber floating. The exhibition is open daily during the tourist season from 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.; admission is voluntary.

Černý Kříž (Black Cross) – A small settlement with several scattered buildings on the edge of the Cold Vltava’s floodplain, where it enters the Vltava Valley, 4 km east of Stožec. It’s an important hidden “railway junction” in the Šumava forests, connecting tracks from Volary, Nová Pec, and Nové Údolí. When the railway was built, this place had no local name, so the newly constructed station was officially named “U černého kříže” (“By the Black Cross”)—after a tall, dark-colored cross standing there. In 1924, the station name was simplified to “Černý Kříž.” The original wooden cross stood until the early 1960s. In 1997, thanks to the Stifter’s Bohemian Forest Railway Association from Volary, a new black cross was erected on the original site. In 2006, it was restored to match its appearance from old photos. It stands in a charming spot on the right bank of the Cold Vltava, about seventy steps from where the road from Černý Kříž to Pěkná crosses the Volary railway line.